Saylor Sew Along-Day 4
Assemble and Attach Skirt
Welcome to Day 4 of the Saylor Sew-along! Today we’ll be assembling our skirt and attaching it to the bodice. Don’t worry if you are a day or 2 behind, you can still catch up by visiting the Day 1, Day 2 and Day 3 posts.
If you chose to do a ruffle, prepare that now by sewing the short sides together to create a loop and hemming the bottom.
For both ruffled and simple skirts, sew up the side seams and finish them with zig-zag stitching or a serger. I like to serge the bottom edge of my skirt and simply fold up and hem. The Saylor directions call for you to iron ¼” and then fold up another 2” – if you choose to serge and fold you may want to fold up 2 ¼” to account for that first ¼” fold we skipped.
There are many ways to attach a skirt ruffle – two rows of stitching on either side of the seam allowance seems to work best.
I like to mark my ruffle at the quarters and start and stop my gathering stitching at each mark. To do this, I fold my ruffle in half, then in half again to find four even parts. I mark these points with a disappearing pen. When I run my gathering stitches I start at one of my marks, leave a tail of thread and sew only until I come to another mark. I make sure to leave a tail here as well then I begin a new line of stitching and repeat this until I have all four segments done. I then pin my ruffle at the sides, center front and center back. Since I created thread tails at each point I am less likely to break a thread and it is easier for me to control how even my gathering is. Pin, pin, pin your ruffle in place and go ahead and sew it on! You will want to remove any gathering stitches that are showing on the outside of the ruffle and then you can finish your seam with zig-zag stitching or a serger.
The toughest part about the skirt assembly is probably making our placket. Steam, pins and a small stitch length will be your secret weapons in creating a neat placket.
Once you’ve created your placket you can run your gathering stitches along the top of the skirt and get your dress assembled. I like to run three segments of stitches, one across the front of the skirt, leaving tails on both side seams, and one on each side of the back. We don’t need to gather across the placket so you can start your stitching in slightly.
Pin your skirt to the bodice – I like to secure my tails by wrapping them to the pins on the side seams and at the placket to keep my gathering in place.
Go ahead and sew using the ⅜” seam allowance which should fall between your two rows of gathering stitches.
Pull your gathering stitches out so they are not seen. We’ll do our pressing and topstitching tomorrow so finish your seams inside and take a break! Be sure to share your work in the fan group for your chance to win a free pattern! See you tomorrow 🙂