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Simple Life Pattern Company | How to attach a Sewn In Pettiskirt to your favorite SLPco Dress

How to Add a Sewn In Pettiskirt to a SLPco Dress

When I first started making dresses for my daughter, I fell in love with all of the big, poofy, vintage style dresses. When I would look at the comments on the group pages, all the creators would say is that it was a sewn-in pettiskirt. The great thing about a sewn-in pettiskirt is that the skirt won’t fall down from the extra weight because it is sewn into the waist seam. No one would share their secrets on how to create that magical poof. So, I came up with my own method that I would LOVE to share with you today. 

Follow the instructions below to get that magical poof on your skirts.

  1. Cut the skirt main according to the cut chart on the pattern you are using. *Tip: I always follow the length measurement on the cut chart, but for the width, I use the whole width of the fabric (wof), which is usually 44” for quilting cottons. This allows the skirt to poof out more. Sew and hem the skirt main according to the pattern’s directions. 
  2. Cut Petticoat Netting using the measurements from the cut chart provided below. For example, if my finished skirt was 11”, I would cut three strips of the size of 54” x 10.5” if I was using lace. If you would like to add even more poof you could add four or even five strips of petticoat netting!
Petticoat Netting with Lace Hem

(Cut 3 LxW)

Petticoat Netting without Lace Hem

(Cut 3 LxW)

Skirt Lining

(Cut 2 LxW)

Finished Length of Skirt-.5” x WOF (54”) Finished Length of Skirt-1” x WOF (54”) Finished Length of Skirt-2” x 36”
  1. Serge or sew the three strips together on the short ends using ¼’” seam allowance. 

  1. Optional: sew lace onto the bottom of the netting using a zig-zag stitch
  2. Serge or sew the short ends of the lining together using 1/4’” seam allowance.
  1. Hem the lining using a method of your choosing. I like to serge the edge, flip it under, and top stitch the edge.

  1. Find and mark the middle back of the skirt main and lining. Find and mark the middle of the middle section on the petticoat lining. With the right sides facing up, line up the middle back marks with the lining on the bottom, petticoat netting in the middle, and skirt main on the top. Treat these three layers as one. Follow your pattern’s directions if you are creating a placket or zipper closure.
  2. Serge or sew the last 2 remaining short sides of the petticoat netting together to create a circle.
  1. Sew 2 gathering stitches (1/4” and 5/8”) on the skirt main, petticoat netting, and petticoat lining separately.

Ladder Stitch Closure

  1. Gather the skirt main to the same width as the bodice. Pin the skirt main and bodice main (NOT BODICE LINING). *Tip: I pin my bodice lining to the top of my bodice so I don’t accidently sew it in.

  1. Serge or sew the skirt main to bodice main using ½” seam allowance.
  1. Gather the petticoat netting and lining so it is the same width as the skirt of the dress.

  1. Serge or sew the gathered netting and lining into the bodice/skirt seam using ¼” seam allowance so you don’t overlap the seam you have made with the bodice and the skirt. 
  2. Flip the bodice lining down and fold it under ½”. Fold the skirt/bodice seam allowance up, and pin the bodice lining to the skirt/bodice seam allowance. 

  1. Hand sew it closed using the ladder stitch. For clarification, see video. 

Bias Tape Closure

  1. Gather the skirt main to the same width of the bodice. Pin the skirt main to the bodice and bodice lining.
  2. Serge or sew the skirt main to the bodice using 1/2” seam allowance. 
  3. Serge or sew the gathered netting and lining into the bodice/skirt seam using ¼” seam allowance so you don’t overlap the seam you have made with the bodice and skirt.

  1. Align the right side of the bias tape with the top of the seam allowance. Pin around the seam allowance overlapping the ends.

  1. Sew around the top using ¼” seam allowance. 

  1. Flip the bias tape around to the other side and pin around the seam allowance. 

  1. Sew around the top using 1/8” seam allowance. 

Now that you have the tools to add a pettiskirt to any dress pattern, you can make them as poofy as your heart desires! Remember to add your creations with a sewn-in pettiskirt to the Simple Life Pattern’s Group page! I cannot wait to see them!

I used the beautiful pattern, Maisie, to create this dress for my pettiskirt tutorial for my daughter. I love the vintage look of this pattern, and she loves how it twirls! 

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