Trixie Sew Along – Day 2
Welcome back for day two of the Trixie sew-along! I’m loving all of your fabric choices. If you are just now joining us, welcome! You have plenty of time to catch up. Just be sure to check out the day one blog post. Today we will add the henley placket to the front of our top/dress.
Preparing Your Placket
The first thing we need to do is mark the center of our dress. I used white chalk since I’m working with a dark colored fabric. Now, we need to make several marks on our placket. Using a frixon pen, draw a line down the center of the placket on the wrong side of the fabric. Furthermore, measure up 1/2″ from the bottom and draw a horizontal line. Finally, fold each of the long ends of your placket in 1/4″ towards the wrong side and press in place.
Sewing the Placket To The Bodice
Lay your dress so that right sides are facing up. Place the placket on top of the dress so that right sides are touching. Match up the center of the dress with the center line of the placket. Pin in place. Starting at the neck, sew down the placket with a 3/8″ seam allowance using the center line as a guide. Stop at the horizontal line. Sew across the horizontal line and back up the other side of the placket. It will look like this.
Cutting Your Placket
Now we need to cut the placket open. Start by cutting down the center line of the rectangle you just sewed. Stop 1/4″ from the bottom horizontal stitch line. Cut at an angle toward the corners to create a Y cut. Most importantly, DO NOT clip through any stitching.
Working on the bottom 1/2″ of your placket we need to make several cuts. Cut up to the vertical stitch lines, making certain not to cut through any stitching. Finally, trim off the far folded edges to reduce bulk.
Folding The Placket
This next part can be a little tricky. If you get stuck, please watch the video I’ve created. Working on the right side of the placket fold up the bottom middle and right side cut fabric of the placket. Flip the right side of the placket in toward the center. Fold the right side of your dress down so that the wrong side is facing up. Fold the placket over to the inside of the dress. Make sure the bottom middle piece is completely covered by the placket. During this step all of the extra fabric and seam allowance will be encased inside the folded edge of the placket. Finally, make certain the folded edge of the placket is slightly over the stitch line. Pin in place.
Topstitching The Placket
We now need to topstitch the right side of the placket to hold the folded edge down. Working on the right side of the dress, topstitch 1/8″ away from the inside edge of the placket and across the bottom. Likewise, repeat steps 7 through 9 for the other side of the placket.
Finishing The Placket
To finish your placket, align the top of the placket over the bottom and pin in place. Sew a box along the bottom with an X in the middle to keep the placket in place. It will look like this.
Day 2 Progress
That is all for day two. If you have any questions or get confused on any of the steps please let me know. I’ve uploaded a video to the fan group and into the sew-along album to help guide you. After you have added your henley placket make sure to upload your day 2 progress photo into the sew-along album for a chance to win free shop credit. See you back here tomorrow when we’ll add the optional pockets.